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Showing posts from April, 2012

DIY Clip On Bars

My Honda Rs125 side project was neglected for the past few months and I just had the time to make some work on it. The clip on bars looked to be an easy job for a start and a great warm up... both were worn and bended so off they go to the bin!  I've used a 22mm aluminum tube and cut two pieces to the same length as oem bars. At the ends of both bars, I have fitted chair leg end plugs though I'm not really sure if they are ACU approved! LOL  While I was there, I've installed a later model Nissin master cylinder and I think I'm going to use a rear HRC brake hose on the front brake as well. Looks a little bit better now. 

Jamie's Nsr250

Big thanks to Jamie(AU), for letting me share the below pics of his bike in action... Hey nick here is a couple of shots of the nsr at eastern creek . It was my first time on the track in 20 years . I had a blast. The bike went amazingly. It wentl well past the 190 on the clock and i figure it got to around 220kph on the straight . Thanks for the fantastic job on my pgm unit. Jamie

Leak-Down Testing

Leak-down testing on a two stroke is another essential tool that can get you out from troubles. In contrary to the compression tester, this test measures pressure loss but both can be used in conjunction by an experienced user to reveal possible issues on an engine.  Testing can take place after a newly assembled engine to verify that everything is leak free, on a bike you just bought and you need to check crank seals condition etc. A leak down tester can be fabricated easily out of parts found on a hardware store but there also kits dedicated for this work at reasonable prices.  Procedure is pretty simple, you need to block all air passages out of the engine, like the carb and exhaust manifolds and the spark plug hole. For the later one, a simple spark plug will do the job fine but you will have to construct some bungs for the carburetor and exhaust manifolds and also acquire a pressure gauge and an air hand pump.  Here is a pic of a plumber pipe plug on the exhaust outle

Compression Testing

A compression gauge is a cheap yet helpful tool to determine the condition and/ or diagnose any possible faults in the top end of your engine. Testing is quite simple and only take a few minutes. Remove the spark plug and position the compression gauge into the spark plug hole. Turn the throttle wide open to ensure that the engine gets adequate air intake and crank the engine until the needle on the gauge peaks at it's maximum reading. Ideally, compression testing should take place after breaking in a new top end and engine temperature should be warm. Compression and temp readings should be recorded for future use. A compression test should be performed every time the engine feels like it's lacking power, running roughly, hard starting etc. This will let you know if you need a top end rebuilt soon. Also, after a rebuilt or a series of engine modifications, a compression gauge will give you a strong indication of how close the engine is to detonation or preignition.

Spaghetti Time

I chopped the wiring loom for the mc28 project to the very basics. Just a little bit better now and neater looking. Easy accessible TPS pot on the subframe as it might need some tweaking. On Nsr250 bikes, tps on carbs is effectively a 5.5Kohm linear potentiometer. 

Sakis Vasilopoulos, One more time racing!

I had the luck to speak with Sakis Vasilopoulos, a great Greek two stroke racer. Spent the last couple hours trying to write a preface but speechless yet so please just enjoy the pics.  Sakis with Fernando,  Yamaha TD3 250 Sakis with Maik and Fernando, Yamaha 200GP Αγαπητέ φίλε Νίκο. Οι φωτογραφίες που σου έστειλα Yamaha RD400/ Yamaha CT1 είναι οι μοναδικές στο κόσμο! Εννοώ δεν έχει άλλος τις ίδιες! Ο φίλος μου ο Fernando Gusman απο την Αργεντινή είναι ο δημιουργός/ κατασκευαστής των σκελετών, μηκανικών μερών, γρανάζια πρωτεύουσας, εξατμίσεις και ότι μπορείς να δείς στις φωτογραφίες, είναι ενας παθιασμένος διχρονάκιας που ξέρει τα πάντα! Έχει απίστευτες γνώσεις και ικανότητες μηχανουργού, συγκολητή, μηνανικού και ότι χρειάζεται ενας οδηγός αγώνων να έχει δίπλα του! Τι να πώ, είμαι τυχερός που γνώρισα αυτόν τον άνθρωπο που με βοηθάει τόσο πολύ στους αγώνες αφιλοκερδός. Τώρα που σου γράφω μου φτιάχνει άλλο σκελετό για το Yamaha YCS1 γιατί του είπα ότι ";se mueve mu

Aluminum radiator hoses

After the installation of the nf5 radiator on the mc28 project, there was a demand for some new hoses with bizarre curves. Aluminum tubes along with a propane torch ...and problem solved. Tubes should be sand packed to minimize bend cross section deformities. Better heat dissipation & tricky looks, I like them.

Rs250 radiator on a Nsr250

I've finished the installation of a NF5 '87-'88 radiator on a mc28 bike and here are some pics that might be of help. Fitment was a little bit tight due to the air scoop for the ram air system plus that early nf5 radiators are dual core yet not curved. Simple brackets out of aluminum did the job well. Upper right hand bracket. Lower left hand bracket along  with a quick release safety pin. Upper left hand bracket.  P.S Radiator by   Goulas Racing Team . Cheers! 

Titanium capable of making even stupid ideas look interesting.

Racing Seat Pad

Spyros(GR) aka Bismark, while working on the mc28 project. Fabricating a seat pad out of 10mm thick closed cell foam, using razors and a flap wheel. I've been told that this seat pad will save me three seconds a lap and I have no reason not to believe it. LOL