Two Stroke Racelab

...expansion chambers. It will be a difficult week.

Welding new mountings on a ΤΖΜ80 frame as to fit a later YZ85 engine.

Here is an alternate way of repairing an end can if the carbon-kevlar tube is not totally junked and replacing is not mandatory. The part of the damaged tube must be removed. I would still be comfortable if the rest of it is 20cm in length at least. Use a piece of thick sandpaper to mark your cutting line. Any metal saw will do the rest of the job.  The same length should be removed from the perforated pipe.  And then welded back in again if necessary.  And here is the end result. 

Here is another bizarre Pgm unit. It is a factory kit PGM3 unit of Leon Haslam's Nsr500 V2 2001 bike.  It features a 7-pin socket on the top side of the unit for ignition advance reprogramming.  Still missing the rest of the parts to complete the Nsr500 bike though... LOL A piece of HRC history nonetheless!  Leon Haslam’s Shell Advance Honda NSR500V, 2001 FIM 500cc World Championship

I thought about making a couple posts with some "exotic" PGM units.   This one is a PgmII unit for Nsr250 F3 MC21 bikes. Even though it was available in the past, F3 parts are now obsolete.  The Nsr250 mc21 originally used a PgmIII unit and there were a few HRC Pgm3 units for the SP Production racing as well but HRC choose a simpler yet effective Pgm2 for the F3 category.  All SP racing parts have the code NKD while FIII racing parts have the code NH3.  I've used this PGMII unit on my Nsr250 racing bike with a modified MC18 wiring loom. 

I'm trying to help a friend fit a Yz85 engine on a Tzm80 frame. There are some issues with the engine mountings that we will have to solve. Stock Tzm engine mountings And later Yz85 engine...

A couple exhaust flanges for Honda Rs125 nf4 expansion chambers. Even though plasma cutting is cheap the result can still be considered as "acceptable"... 

...is available through my store and ebay.

Even when I try to organize the lab, the worktable would still be, so to speak, a mess!

Some pics on how to setup the exhaust valves of your vj22 engine. 1) Turn the ignition "on". 2) Turn the kill switch to "on". 3) Find the "grey" wire that is located near the battery and most probably it's under the fuse box. Uncover the brass fitment and touch it to the ground terminal (-) of the battery. You should immediately hear the servo mechanism moving. While you are still keeping the grey wire on the earth terminal... 4) Turn the kill switch to "OFF". 5) Now, it's time to setup the powervalves. You should align the mark on the servo pulley to the second mark (there are three marks in total) on the cylinder. Keep enough slack on both servo cables (about 2-3mm) and you're done! Cheers!